Plate 16: Staircase, Hall of Clestrain, Orphir, Orkney, 2007

Odin Stone: Plate 16 - Staircase, Hall of Clestrain, Orphir, Orkney, 2007
The Hall of Clestrain was once a magnificent Georgian House that is today in near ruin. Built in 1769 by Patrick Honeyman of Graemsay, the house was left in the care of the estate manager, John Rae, when the family fortune grew and the Honeymans relocated to central Scotland. The fourth son of John Rae, Dr. John Rae, was born there in 1813. Dr. John Rae worked for the Hudson Bay Company and was an artic explorer. He discovered the last link in the Northwest Passage and he is also infamous for discovering that the better-known Franklin Expedition died en route and the last survivors turned to cannibalism in their attempt to survive. For this revelation Dr. Rae was brutally condemned in the British press and never received the recognition he deserved.
Built on the shore of Scapa Flow and poorly designed for the site and the weather of Orkney, the house has fallen into disrepair and been used for several different purposes including a byre. The one outstanding feature still remaining inside is this wonderful staircase. I visited the house on several occasions and each time searched for a different way to photograph the staircase. On my last visit I placed my camera vertically in the widow sill to the right of the staircase. Using a very wide-angle lens and the camera sitting on the windowsill I could not see the exact composition on the ground glass. I thought I knew what I was getting and it turned out the image was almost exactly what I hoped it would be. Looking at the image I feel as if I am inside a nautilus shell with this glorious curve coming right past me.
Today there is a serious on going effort to save and restore the Hall of Clestrain. It has been featured on the BBC program Restoration. It didn’t win the competition but did receive favorable publicity. A local group, Friends of Orkney Boat Museum, has formed to restore the house to it original condition and build an Orkney boat museum nearby. If you are interested in the Hall of Clestrain, John Rae, or The Orkney Boat Museum you may find more information about all three at:www.hallofclestrain.org.uk
Plate 17: Orkney Chairs, Kirbuster Museum, Birsay, Orkney, 2003

Odin Stone: Plate 17 - Orkney Chairs, Kirbuster Museum, Birsay, Orkney, 2003 - Tillman Crane
These Orkney chairs are located in the Kirbuster Farm Museum in Birsay Parrish, Orkney. Orkney Chairs are an original Orcadian design. Because Orkney had very few trees and no lumbering industry to speak of, the wooden seat and arms are usually built out of driftwood found on the shore. The backs are traditionally woven barley straw like the chair on the right. The design appears to go back a couple of hundred years but no one knows exactly when the first “Orkney Chair” was made. These Orkney chairs embrace the person sitting in them. The back comes up to neck level and the side come around and form almost a cocoon around the sitter. I am sure the design of the chairs were created to keep the draft off the back of the person sitting in front of the traditional open hearth fire located in the center of the house. In these chairs you sit back, encased and warm, a good place to share stories or listen to epic adventure tales on long cold winter nights.
Plate 18: Town Park, Finstown, Orkney, 2005

Odin Stone: Plate 18 - Town Park, Finstown, Orkney, 2005 - Tillman Crane
Finstown sits between Stromness and Kirkwall at the junction of the A965 and the A966. It was grew up around a pub called the Toddy Hole in the 1820’s. Today it is a lovely village of stone houses and the Bay of Firth provides shelter for pleasure craft and small fishing vessels. It took several years of driving through Finstown before I took the time to look behind the main drag through town. I “discovered” this park behind the main road through Finstown. I say discovered because I didn’t know it was there so it was a wonderful discovery for me. It wasn’t listed in many books nor noticed on many maps. It sits behind the Firth Church in downtown Finstown I should have realized that behind the busy intersection of the A965 and the A966 there would be a place where the residents could go for a quiet chat and to enjoy the last light of a summer evening. And this park is surely it. Although no one was there it felt like a place where stories could be told in comfort.
It looks like a friendly informal arrangement to me. One bench in anchored, and one is made of stone. I feel as if neighbors brought out the other benches to share a good sit down, and just left them there for others to use. It is almost as if can hear the conversations hanging in the air. The setting sun brings warmth to this neighborhood gathering. The well-worn center tells of its frequent use. Orkney is changing so fast that when I returned to this park in Finstown a year after making this image, it was being redeveloped into a park that no longer included the one suggested by these six benches. I hope the new park is every bit as friendly and inviting as the old one.
Plate 19: Hearth, Kirbuster Museum, Birsay, Orkney, 2007

Odin Stone: Plate 19 - Hearth, Kirbuster Museum, Birsay, Orkney, 2007 - Tillman Crane
The Kirbuster Farm Museum is an Orcadian blackhouse that has been in continuous habitation since the16th century. Tax records tell the story of all the families who lived in it over centuries. This house was only slightly modified over all that time. I was told that when the last owner died, the surviving relatives deeded the property to the Orkney Council. The council decided to turn it into a living history museum in order to preserve a history of this quickly passing way of life. The interior stonewalls were at some point wallpapered over but nothing else had been done to them. By stripping off the wallpaper this central room was returned to the way it had appeared for centuries. The centrally located hearth contains a traditional peat fire. Early croft houses had no chimney, merely a hole in the roof to vent smoke, so the peat smoke blackens the walls. I loved the smell of being in this room. It became one of my favorite locations in Orkney. On a cold wet blustery day, it was very inviting to be in a room warmed by a wonderful smelling peat fire. On each visit I would photograph throughout the house but each time my interest returned to this central room. I made many photographs where I tried to capture the feel and smell of the room. This one comes the closest. It was a long exposure, 25 minutes or so. The fire glows and the smoke fills the air and no one enters the room during the entire exposure. I had it all to my self. And I smelled of peat the rest of the day.
